Fabric Postcards with Packing Tape Transfers

I mentioned in my last post about making packing tape transfers that I thought I might use them in a postcard swap from ihanna’s blog.  Very frequently, when I enter something like this, I end up making something very far away from my original idea.  In this case, though, I went with what had been my first idea.  The pile of postcards above are my result.  Here is an overview of how I put them together.

First, I made several packing tape transfers- check out my previous post linked above for the details.  I then pulled out my big box of hand-dyed fabric scraps left over from previous projects, dye experiments, etc., and tried to match them up with the transfers that I had.  I decided to go with a size of 4-1/2″ by 6″ and cut out what would become my base, some stiff interfacing.  I used non-fusible Peltex because that’s what I had ( I challenged myself to use only materials I already had in the house for this project):

I then cut out the fabric for the front and back of each postcard as well as a small piece of off-white muslin that I decided to use as a frame for each transfer.  Because each transfer varied in size, I hand-cut this.  Here’s a stack of all of the materials for one postcard: address-side fabric, Peltex, front fabric, muslin and packing tape transfer:

After cutting everything out, my first step was to use a couple of strips of Heat and Bond to adhere the main fabric to the Peltex.  This might have been a good place to use fusible Peltex or even full sheets of Steam-a-Seam or Misty Fuse, but once, again, I was determined to use just what I had on hand:

I repeated this with the rectangle of muslin, which I placed by eye.  I like general symmetry, but I don’t like it to be too perfect, so I don’t really measure most things like this:

I then placed the transfer on top:

For some reason, I forgot to take pictures of the next step, but it’s easy to explain.  I sewed around the packing tape transfer through all of the layers using a small-ish zig zag stitch.  I then switched thread colors to add a bit more depth and sewed around the outside of the muslin with a zig zag stitch.

At this point, I wrote  the addresses on my postcard backing fabric.  I wanted to do this before I sewed it all together so that if I made a mistake, I wouldn’t have to take the whole postcard apart to fix it.  In the past, I’ve also made fabric address labels that I ironed on after the postcard is all sewn together, but I didn’t want to do that this time. Once again, I ironed a couple of strips of Heat and Bond onto the postcard base.  Before doing this, I put down a piece of parchment paper so that there would be no chance of having the packing tape transfer melt or stick to my ironing board cover.  I don’t know if it would have really been a problem, but I didn’t want to take a chance.

I then sewed around the entire postcard with a wider zig zag stitch.  Here’s a close-up of one with all stitching finished:

A picture of all of the postcard reverse sides:

Here are a few pictures of the postcards a little closer-up:

These were really fun to make and now I just need to get some stamps to get them in the mail in the next day or two.   I’ve also been enjoying looking at all of the links showing the creativity of some of the other people participating in this swap. Check out the link to ihanna’s blog at the top of this post  to see the blogs of other swappers and a flickr pool of some of the images- lovely eye candy to me!

Packing Tape Transfers

I recently heard someone mention “Packing Tape Transfers” in passing on an internet list.  It seemed assumed that everyone knew what that was, but I had never heard of it.  After some googling, I figured out the basic principle (which is very simple!) and began experimenting.  This is the sort of craft I love because it’s easy, I already had all of the materials needed, and the result can be used in many different ways.

The materials:

Packing tape and magazines

I read in a few places that you should use pages from good quality magazines, but I’m not really sure what that means.  Some that were very glossy that I would have thought were high quality didn’t do as well as some that were more matte made out of recycled paper. I also successfully made one out of a cartoon on very low quality newsprint and another from an image on my power bill.  All I can really recommend is to experiment and see what happens.  You really won’t be out much if an image fails.

First, find an image you like and cover it with packing tape.  This image is from an ad in Mary Jane’s Farm magazine, which happens to make very nice transfers.  The packing tape is just regular old packing tape available everywhere.  I’ve used two different brands and both worked fine.

Next, trim the paper to match the tape and smooth down really well.  I use a combination of pressing with my fingers and also passing over it a couple of times with my grocery store club card:

Next, put the images in a dish of water.  I read all different lengths of time, from 15 minutes to an hour.  I usually leave them soaking for half  an hour or so.

The next step is my favorite part.  Gently rub off the paper from the back.  I usually do this one time and then soak it in fresh water and go over it one more time.  Some papers almost dissolve and others take a bit more work.

And finished- You can see how translucent the finished image is.

I usually give them one final rinse and then allow them to dry spread out on a dish towel.  Sometimes when they are dry there may still be little bits of paper and sometimes I re-soak them and other times I leave it as it doesn’t seem to make that much difference.  Sometimes there is still just a bit of stickiness on the transfers, so I store them in a single layer and then roll them up in wax paper.

Here is a recent batch:

These can now be used in a variety of ways- glue them to paper, use them in scrapbooks, cover a journal with them, or as my current plan is, sew them to something else.  I’m participating in a postcard exchange and plan to layer these with some of my hand-dyed fabrics and stitch them all together.  I made a sample out of a transfer I didn’t particularly love to make sure it would work.  In this sample, I sewed the transfer to a piece of muslin that I’d bonded to a piece of heavy interfacing (Peltex).

If I like my final results and end up going with this for the postcard exchange (organized by ihanna’s lovely blog), I’ll post them here.  And if I go a completely different way for my postcards, I’ll post that here, too :).

Shibori Stitched-Resist Hearts

A couple of weeks ago, there was a prediction that we would have some significant snow within the following week.  I was looking forward to that because I wanted to try snow dyeing.  We had a decent amount of snow in November, but at that time I was too busy with holidays and activities to pull out all of my dye supplies.  As the approaching storm got closer, the predicted temperatures got warmer and warmer and in the end all we had was rain.  Still, I felt like playing with dye, so I turned to my old favorite, stitched-resist shibori.  I decided to make hearts, which I plan to use in some future projects.  They are really quick and simple to stitch up.

To start, I cut a heart shape out of an old bill to use as my pattern.  It’s close to  3 inches x 3 inches in size:

Next, I folded my fabric in half and traced around the heart.  I like to use Crayola’s washable markers- I’ve never had a problem with them washing out of my cotton fabrics.  I then drew two more hearts freehand.

I then threaded my needle with a double strand of Dual Duty Button and Carpet thread.  It’s a little heavier and sturdier than many other threads and is also easy to find in chain fabric stores.  I stitched a simple running stitch over each of the lines I’d drawn.  I knotted the beginning of the stitching of each row, leaving the other ends loose for now.  Here’s the side with the lines:

Here’s the other side, which shows the stitching a little better.  I don’t particularly try to be even with the stitches:

Next, I pulled all the stitches tight and knotted the doubled ends together that had been left loose:

I then dyed the fabrics.  After dyeing, I usually give them a cold rinse and soak and then carefully clip and remove the threads before giving them a final washout of the excess dye- and yes, my fingers are still faintly purple from this today.

I used three different fabrics for this batch of hearts. Some was dyed golden yellow (and over-dyed fuchsia red), some was left white (dyed with blue-violet), and some was multi-colored (over-dyed with strong navy).  All of the dyes I use are fiber reactive procion dyes from Dharma Trading.

Original fabrics:

Finished hearts, ready to use for appliques, to be further embellished and/or pieced into other projects:

 

Making Word Snowflakes with Coffee Filters

I love making snowflakes just for the joy of doing it.  I love folding up some paper, randomly cutting and then opening it up to see my results.  I don’t think one is ever too old for it, or if so that age must come later than 45, because I’m still enjoying it.

I’ve been enjoying seeing posts around the internet lately about patterns for snowflakes and different fold options for snowflakes.  I saw a post a few days ago about folding 5-fold snowflakes which reminded me about some word snowflakes I’d made in the past.  I actually first saw these several years back when a work-study student in my husband’s office made them with the names of all of the people in the department and hung them up as winter decorations.  I’ve been playing around with making snowflakes with coffee filters for the past few days, so decided to combine both ideas to make these.

First, here is a link to a pdf illustrating folding square paper into a 5 pointed star:

http://www.jessicajonesdesign.com/downloads/five_point_snowflake.pdf

I’ll  show my version using a round coffee filter below, but the link above may be helpful  if starting with square paper.

I used these coffee filters because I had a bunch of them in my cupboard left over from a previous project.  I found that it’s helpful to give them a quick once-over with an iron to flatten them out a bit.  I was able to flatten several at a time and it made them much easier to work with.

First, fold coffee filter in half:

Then fold it in half again:

Now open up that last fold.  Take the right-hand side and fold it up to the middle:

Open it up again.  The creases should look like this:

The next step is easy to do, but harder to show and explain.  Fold the crease that was just made to meet the center crease.  Open it up and it should look like this:

Now fold the right- hand edge up to meet the last crease made:

Next, fold the left-hand side over to meet the new right-hand edge:

Now fold  this in half:

Now, this can be cut in any way you choose.  Here’s a traditionally cut snowflake from one of my coffee filters:

For cutting words into the snowflake, here are my next steps.  First, I took my folded triangle and traced it several times onto a piece of paper:

I then started experimenting with drawing words and letters.  Here is my sketch for “joy”:

My drawing skills aren’t amazing, but that doesn’t really matter for this.  I just try  to be careful to keep my shapes simple enough to cut easily and also to keep everything connected.  At least a little bit of the edge on both sides of the triangle needs to remain intact, just as for any snowflake cutting.

When I was happy with my design, I cut out the triangle from the scrap paper.  I slipped this inside the top layer of my folded snowflake (and a note- I had to trim off a little tiny bit from both sides of my pattern to slip it inside) so that I could see it to trace my design:

I then traced it:

Then cut it out.  A hole punch can help to start cuts in inside areas:

All cut out:

And finished!

These can be flattened a bit with a book or pressed with an iron.  Here’s another one I made with the word “peace”:

I love that at first glance, these just look like any other snowflake, but when looking closer, the word shows up.

I’m off to make some more!

My First Woven Bag

I’ve recently been interested in learning more about weaving, and last month my mom helped  that interest along by giving me a rigid heddle weaving loom as a birthday gift.  I’ve enjoyed making a few little sample things, figuring out how to warp it without looking back at the instructions and generally just getting comfortable and familiar with it.  I decided it was time to make an actual project, but limited myself to what I had here.  Since I also knit and crochet, there does tend to be plenty of yarn around here already :).

I had previously only tried working in plain weave, and wanted to try something new.  I found a youtube video showing how to do  a pattern called Brooks Bouquet and decided I wanted to try it.  It’s here if you’d like to see it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeucN2Ge4x4

The yarn I used was from a cone of some hemp-wool blend that I have had around for awhile.  I started out with 6 rows of plain weave and then began the Brooks Bouquet pattern.  I repeated the pattern 10 times then wove 3 inches of plain weave for the bottom of the bag, then ten more repeats of Brooks Bouquet, ending with 6 more plain rows.  Here’s a picture of it in progress on the loom:

After taking it off the loom, I finished both ends with a couple of rows of zig-zag stitching on my sewing machine.

I then made the long strap that became the sides and handle as a 3-inch wide strip of plain weave.  I hemmed it on the sewing machine, as well:

I hand-sewed the edge the strap to the body of the bag.  I left the very top part of the bag un-sewn and left the sewing yarn there to finish stitching up after adding the lining:

I then started working on the lining.  I was given some really nice wool wool fabric that was sort of a gray color.  I over-dyed it deep orange.  Here’s a picture of the before and after:

To create the lining, I measured across the bag:

I added two inches for seam allowances and added several inches to the height:

I then pulled up the bottom corners and measured  a triangle that was 3 inches across (my strap/bottom width) up the side edge.  I sewed across this triangle and trimmed the corners:

I inserted the lining into the bag and hand-tacked the bottom corners.  I then folded the  lining over the top edge and carefully pinned it to make sure I was catching all of it as I sewed.  I machine stitched all around the top 3/4″ down.  I then pulled that fabric back over itself to the inside of the bag and pinned it down well.  I machine stitched this from the front side of the bag very close to the lining through all of the layers- sort of the stitch-in-the-ditch thing often used in quilting.  I didn’t take pictures of that part, so I hope this sort of makes sense :).

When finishing the top, I also sewed in a crocheted loop to serve as a button hole.  I finished hand-stitching up the last bit of the sides, sewed on a hand-made button and here is the finished bag:

I think that the finishing part took at least as long- maybe even longer- than the weaving part :).

Weaving at the Hospital

A couple of weeks ago, the newest issue of Piecework magazine came in the mail (March/April 2010).

I always enjoy reading about various textile arts of the past and in this issue, I was especially taken by the article about weaving on mini 4-inch looms, originally called Weave-Its.  The article said that these had also been produced under the name Weavette, but that they were no longer made and could now be found on Ebay, in antique shops, or at garage sales.

For some reason, I really thought I’d like to find one of these to play with.  I began doing some internet searching and discovered that a very similar loom is currently available from Hazel Rose looms.  I ordered the 4″ square multi-loom, found on this page:
http://hazelroselooms.com/loom_files/MLSq.html

It was shipped very quickly and arrived at my house last Thursday.  I played with it a bit on Thursday night.  I’ve never really done much in the way of weaving, and I messed up the warping of my first square.  I then successfully made one square and proceeded to mess up my third.  By that point, I had finally figured out how everything is supposed to look when it’s right and when it’s wrong and have been successful with all of my later squares.  I found it to not be difficult once I finally had the warping part figured out.

On Friday morning, I started to take pictures of my first four successful squares.

I was going to write a blog post about it and planned to write that while it was sort of fun, I didn’t really anticipate making any huge projects this way.  I’d found some pdfs of vintage project books at

http://www.eloomanation.com/ that had initially looked fun, but that I now knew I’d never really create enough squares to make any of them.

Then, the phone rang.  My husband called to tell me he’d fallen at work and that one of his co-workers was going to take him into the urgent care clinic to get checked out.  Then he called a bit later to say that urgent care wouldn’t see him and wanted him to go to the hospital. It turned out that his hip was broken and I needed to head to the hospital as he would need surgery.  As I threw a few things into a bag to take to the hospital, I threw my mini loom and a ball of yarn in, too.

The next few days were long, tiring and are sort of a blur now.  My husband had very successful surgery and I spent a lot of time sitting in the hospital.  I was very, very thankful to have that mini-loom with me. I found that it was the perfect thing to work with to keep my hands busy. It required no counting or following patterns as knitting or crocheting would have.  There are no stitches to get pulled out in my bag and it could be put down at any second as I helped adjust a pillow, talked to a physical therapist, or whatever.  I could work quickly and make a whole square or just weave a slow row or two when I was tired and distracted.

Now my husband is home from the hospital to continue the work of healing.  I’m finding that my loom is still the perfect outlet for me, as I sit near him on the couch or bed, being close to help if needed, but not distracting to him.  Weaving little squares is possible when tired in a way that other hand-work just isn’t working for me right now.  I anticipate my little loom being a continuing companion as we head to doctor’s appointments and physical therapy visits in the coming weeks.

I’m not really sure what I’m making yet, but I’m accumulating quite a stack of little woven squares that I can put together at a less tired time.  A few of them are here:
It may sound sort of strange to be thankful for a little wooden frame with a bunch of nails in it, but I can truly say that’s how I feel.

Crocheted Heart Pattern

Valentine’s Day is next month, and I’ve been scanning the internet for patterns for crocheted hearts.  I’ve found lots of them, but never quite what I was looking for.  Some were too big or too frilly or had instructions that made no sense to me or were otherwise not quite what I was looking for.  I found a new one a couple of days ago that looked promising, but the pattern had errors in it, and being sort of new to this crochet thing, I sometimes know enough to tell when something’s wrong, but not always enough to know how to fix it.  I worked at trying to fix the pattern, and ended up creating my own, combining a few ideas I’d seen and making something new.  It’s possible that this combination has been made before, but I haven’t seen it, so I’m offering it here. I’m writing it up two ways:  first, just the quick instructions, and second, with pictures that show the steps in case I’m not clear.  Hopefully that will be helpful to newer crocheters (okay, me!), who often wish there was a picture to explain the steps that aren’t intuitively understood.

Thread and needles:  I used #10 crochet cotton with a Boye#8 (1.5mm) steel hook and #5 crochet cotton with a Boye #5(1.90 mm) steel hook.  I’m sure lots of other combinations would be fine, too.

Gauge isn’t really important here.

Abbreviations:

ch= chain

sl st= slip stitch

dc= double crochet

tr= treble crochet

sp= space

To begin, ch5 and join with a sl st to make a ring (or make an adjustable ring).

Row 1:  Ch3( counts as 1st dc), 2dc into ring, ch2. (3dc, ch2) into ring 3 more times.  Join with a sl st to top of beginning ch3. (12 dc, 4 ch2 spaces)

Row 2:  Sl st in next 2 stitches and into ch2 sp. Ch3(counts as 1st dc), 2dc, ch2, 3dc in ch2 sp, ch2.  *Skip next 3 dc and 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2.* Repeat from * to* 2 more times.  Join with a sl st to beginning ch3.  (24 dc, 8 ch2 spaces)

Row 3:  Sl st in next 2 stitches and into ch2 sp.  *Ch1. Tr into next ch2 sp (center of the square).  Ch1.  (tr, ch1) 6 more times in same ch2 space.  Join with a sl st in next ch2 space.*  Half of  curved part of heart is now completed.  Repeat from *to* to make 2nd heart curve.  Fasten, weave in ends and block if you want to.

And now, with pictures ( I know a few of them are blurry, but hopefully they are clear enough to get the idea across):

At the end of row 1:

Beginning of Row 2- how it should look when stitches are slipped over to next chain 2 space:

End of row 2:

Beginning of Row 3, showing stitches slipped to next chain 2 space:

Next step in Row 3- One chain made, first treble crochet made in next chain 2 space:

Row 3, showing first 7 treble crochets:

Row 3, showing slip stitch into next chain 2 space:

Row 3, beginning the second half of the heart curve:

Finished, showing the final slip stitch in next chain 2 space:

All ends woven in, blocked and pretty!

These are a little smaller than 2 inches square in #10 cotton and just over 2 inches in #5 cotton. These are very quick and I plan on making a bunch more of them to use in some Valentine projects.  Hopefully, my explanations are clear enough that other people can use them, too!

Playing With Fabric Collagraphs

I posted previously about making collagraphs using file folders ( see here).  I’ve continued to experiment with my stash of file folders and lately I’ve been playing with overlapping the images to create fabric backgrounds.

Here’s some of my playing from this morning.

This picture shows the image as it is, with one layer:

Here is the image with several overlapping layers:

My goal today was to create a fabric that could be cut into a star shape to use as part of a Christmas card I’m designing.  I used a piece of file folder to mask different areas to help me determine where I wanted to cut:

I made three different pieces of layered fabrics and these are the stars I’ve cut out so far:

My plan now is to applique one or more of these to a background waiting to be found in my box of hand-dyed fabric pieces.  It may eventually be formatted, scanned and printed into this year’s Christmas card.  It also may not, as something else from my box of scraps sometimes emerges.  In that case, these will be used for something else when their time is right.  It’s still early in December, so there is still time :D.

These images were made using Stockmar beeswax crayons on various pieces of fabric.  I did heat set them with an iron with a piece of paper over and under them to absorb any stray wax, but I don’t really know about their washfastness as that doesn’t matter much for my current purposes.  I do need to experiment with that one of these days.

One thing that I found very helpful that I hadn’t thought of before was to put my fabric in an embroidery hoop.  In the past, I’d just taped it down, but fabric gives and moves more than paper which sometimes caused some fuzzy images.  The embroidery hoop keeps the fabric nice and tight.

Crochet Ornaments

Now that I’ve sort of figured out how to crochet, I’ve been enjoying working on little projects.  This time of year, for me that means ornaments.  They are fun and perfect for the short attention span I’ve had lately.  Here’s a picture of several of them, with more detailed descriptions below:

This group was made using patterns from the Leisure Arts Big Book of Thread Ornaments to Crochet:

These are from Edie Eckman’s book, Beyond-the-Square Crochet Motifs.  This book isn’t about making ornaments, but I love how they’ve turned out as ornaments when made with crochet thread.  I like all of these better than the ones from the ornament book:

This one is a  favorite of mine  and I’ve made a few of them:

It’s from the e-book, Crafty Tree Trimmings, which is available until the end of December here:

http://shop.craftypod.com/trimmings

Part of the proceeds go to Project Linus and the other ornament patterns are great, too.  This is the only crochet pattern, so check it out even if crochet isn’t your thing.

Making File-Folder Collagraphs

A few weeks ago when I was visiting my husband’s office, I saw a pile of file folders outside one of the other offices with a “free-take me” sign on them.  I’d recently gotten interested in making collagraphs and had seen a technique somewhere that used file folders to make them.

I made a couple of simple collagraph plates  right away using using drawings that were traced onto a file folder and then glued down to another file folder, with the intention of making some more complex ones later.  Here are the first ones:

Life sort of got in the way of making any more for awhile, but for the last couple of days, I’ve had some ideas going through my brain that involved circles- actually that’s been a theme to a lot of the stitched shibori I’ve done this summer, too.  Today, I decided to draw something with circles and make a collagraph plate from it.

I started by gluing two file folders together with a glue-stick, as my free folders are pretty thin.  I then drew on my circle images and scanned it so I’d have a copy to work from as I cut it apart and glued it back together.  Here’s my original and my scanned copy:

I glued the scanned copy to another file folder and then began cutting out and gluing the pieces to that base.  I used a regular glue stick for all of the gluing. Here’s a picture part way through the process:

It actually took me a couple of hours to cut this apart and glue it back together, but it was exactly what I needed.  I love to cut things out- for me there’s some sort of meditative thing about cutting and gluing.

I made a couple of quick images from my new collagraph plate tonight.  These are both on fabric, using Caran D’ache neocolor 1 water resistant pastels.  When I heat-set these with an iron, they seem to be quite permanent on fabric.

On natural fabric:

On some of my hand-dyed fabric:

I’m hoping to have time to make more of these soon, and also to experiment with using them on some of my other hand-dyed fabrics.

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